Chances are, if you’re heading to Europe, it’s not to Portugal.
Logistically, it’s out of the way for non-cruisers. Besides, London, Paris, Madrid, Barcelona, Rome, Venice, Vienna et al remain the premier traveler magnets. Lisbon doesn’t have the same cachet. Moreover, it doesn’t help when your country has long been known as Europe’s perennial poor economic cousin. There are better marketing mantras than “Where Europeans go for their cheap trips.”
And yet.
My wife Laraine and I were there for a week recently. We found the Lisbon area intriguing and charming. Same for Porto–actually more so–about 200 miles to the north.
Maybe we are that impressionable. Maybe we’re easily smitten by funiculars, public elevators, grand squares, majestic archways, historic cathedrals, postcard seascapes, fado clubs, strolling accordionists, a mild climate, winding cobble-stone streets, hilly vistas of pastel-colored, red-roofed residences and port wine. Maybe in a politically polarized world, we’re too impressed with a country with a history of liking and supporting America. Maybe we were overly enamored of Europe at 20 per cent off.
But let me pause here. I swore I wouldn’t do one of those “I-had-a-super-swell-time-on-my-fancy-ass-vacation-and-now-let-me-regale-you-with-details” columns. But, yes, I took some notes.
*After Portugal joined the European Community (1986), serious EC funding began boosting redevelopment. Tourist appeal was a key part of the strategy–from infrastructure to building rehabs. It’s apparent in Lisbon, especially in the fashionable Chiado and historic Alfama districts. The country, of course, remains a European debt-crisis case study, but it’s making a concerted effort to woo even more Germans, Brits, Brazilians and Americans.
*Let’s hear it for public buildings as public art. Most notably: light rail and train stations. Tiled walls that seduce the aesthetic eye. While graffiti, mostly non-political, marred too much, the transit facilities seemed less targeted. Even self-indulgent punks must be impressed.
*Lisbon is no exception to the Irish pub explosion. The one that caught our attention featured “Yes We Can” signage out front. Portugal, of course, tilts left, and Barack Obama would be its preferred American presidential candidate–but such blatant political partisanship? The manager of O’Gilin’s explained that it meant “Yes We Can (allow you to smoke inside).” But upon further inquiry, she acknowledged impishly that the double entendre was, of course, intentional.
*Speaking of, smoking is more than manifest despite campaigns to curtail it. The “Fumar Mata” (“Smoking Kills”) warnings on cigarette packs are larger than the brand name. Prices are projected to rise from approximately $5 a pack to $7.75. A prominent media story noted that a recent survey indicated that more than 90 per cent of Portuguese want to raise non-smoking children. But a cursory look around tells you many won’t succeed.
*In our case, nice familiar touch that canary palms, birds of paradise, bougainvilleas and oleanders were so prolific.
*The daily press carried accounts of an increasing exodus of younger Portuguese. In the last year, some 65,000 residents–25-34–left Portugal, a country with a population of 10 million. Projection for this year: 100,000. It’s their form of career move and anti-austerity protest.
*Happened upon the University of Lisbon one day. It was apparent why it makes nobody’s must-see list. Caped academics were cool, but it looked like the University of South Florida–if USF had stayed mired in 1960s architecture.
*The most notable exception to Lisbon’s Old World look is on the east side by the Tagus River where Expo ’98 was held. It’s now a modern enclave of repurposed exposition and pavilion space including hotels, an aquarium, a stadium, a casino and a major shopping destination plus cable cars and the 10.7-mile Vasco da Gama Bridge, Europe’s longest.
*It’s always, well, interesting being privy to back-home news and references while on another continent. But we could have done without any more analysis of Florida’s “Stand Your Ground” law, the Treyvon Martin case and America’s gun culture. The BBC ran a documentary on it. Its correspondent noted that “democracy was increasingly for sale” in reference to NRA influence and how “presidential candidates duck gun issues.” I wished he were wrong.
*CNN International provided a next-day, commercial-replete re-run of the presidential debate on foreign policy. The President and the Second Guesser-in-Chief squaring off. The bottom line: It ratcheted up election anxiety. No holiday from that. Obvious Romney strategy: Work in “tumult” as often as possible. He did, five times. And while moderator Bob Schieffer was certainly no Jim Lehrer, his use of hypotheticals involving the Middle East was disconcerting. Where there’s a trip-wire hypothetical, there’s a chance a given candidate, but especially an incumbent, could get recklessly self-serving with an answer being monitored in Tehran, Tel Aviv and Kabul. To the credit of both President Obama and Mitt Romney, neither took the bait. Normally nuanced responses are annoying political palaver. Not in this instance.
*Always need to have a book going–in this case, it was the all too pertinent, well-researched “The President’s Club.” May there be no new members for a while.
*Global Village update: Shared Lisbon tram space one day with a couple from Manchester, UK. I inquired if the husband were a fan of Manchester United. He said he was–but not of its owner. “Does he (Malcolm Glazer) ever smile?” he asked rhetorically.
*Another reminder: Wherever you’ve been, there’s no place better to conclude it than TIA. From coach to first class. Makes you proud every time. And nice touch hearing Joe Maddon’s welcoming voice on the tram.